Parts Needed
RE 5.5 HD kit ( I got mine with adjustable upper control arms)
Doestch Shocks
Tom Woods Drive Shaft & HD SYE
(4)33x12.5 BFG MTs on AR-767s w/4.75" BS
(1)33x10.5 BFG MT on AR-767 w/ 4.5" BS

Tools Needed
basic socket set
Expanded socket set including deep & large metric
Breaker bars
Angle grinder
Dremel with cutting disks
Lots of PB Blaster
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
Blue Loctite
Drill & assorted bits

***Took us an entire weekend. Probably 48 total Man Hours including getting the steering bugs out. I'd go into detailed directions, but you should already know how to do most of the stuff. Some advice & pics though:

Have lots of metric sockets...13,14,15&18,etc... deep, short & impact. Lots of Metric wrenches too.

Have a grinder. Gotta ground down the back of the stock LCA perches ... in fact, I had to grind on the new LCA bushing sleeves b/c they didn't want to go in... and some other stuff.

If it doesn't fit the first time ... loosen everything and try again. Especially true of the control arm drops.


PB blast the hell out of the upper control arm bolts.... I had to grind half of one of the nuts off so we could get vice grips on with cheat pipes to loosen it. The UCA front bolts wanted to bend the little tabs welded to them also.

I suggest you ream out the holes in the rear of the drop supports that mount with the t-case crossmember. Would have been much easier to do off the vehicle. Oh and get some longer bolts. I got some that were about 2". They should be "metric 10 - 1.5" ... And if you can find a stud remover you want that as well....


Had to fab new sway bar links, RE ones were too short. Lowes has some nice aluminum tubing in the fasteners area (around the angle iron) that worked just fine.


Plan on having to drill a new hole for the adjustable tracbar. My Adjustable tracbar was a little too short and I didn't want to compromise strength by only having a few threads making contact. Ratchet strap or a buddy will help you center the axle by rocking the steering wheel....

My rear spring perch center holes needed to be reamed out a little.

Longer jack stands would have been cool, as would 4 instead of 2.

PB blast every bolt, every other day, starting a week in advance. I'm really serious. And try to remember to get anything you might have to move... including steering linkage and the steering stablizer.

Speaking of steering linkage. My Drag link would have smacked my passenger side sway bar link so I had to flip the tie rod end that goes through the drag link to the front. I also had to trim the sway bar mount & steering stablizer mount. I'm ordering the Rustys steering conversion as well...


IF you are doing a SYE remember to use medium loctite on the yoke straps and such and get lots of rtv sealant. Enjoy getting the snap rings out, they were a PITA.


Plan on using breaker bars & cheat pipes a lot... especially on the tracbar mount lower bolts and the upper control arms ... if you can get em out with out rounding em off. I actually don't think there was a single bolt that come off without a cheat pipe or a breaker bar... unless I had previously loosened em on the prior install of my 3" Kit.

Having a vice will help you press in the shock & swaybar bushings .... just make sure it is a stronger vice than mine was...


If you have a garage, measure before you order stuff. This is with the 31s still on and no it doesn't fit in there now...


Finding a place to put Jackstands when you pull the front end can be a little tricky if you don't have long ones b/c you have to add the braces to the control arms drops. You can do this, but keep in mind we had about 300lbs in the rear just to make sure....


I used the pics from Jason (www.jeepin.com) as references several times. If you have a laptop you might want to keep it handy so you can look at other peoples writeups. If you have any questions, or would like a pic of something certain, feel free to email me and I'll do my best to help you out.

Here's the end result: