PSC Trail Cage Install
Tools Needed
Assorted Torx Bits (T30, T35, T40, T47, T50, T55)
Tamper Proof Torx Bit T50 & T55 or small pipe wrench
Large Crescent Wrench
Air ratchet
Rustolium Auto Primer
Rustolium Paint
Mig Welder
Sharpie Marker
Sand paper 500, 800, 1000
Wire brush
Wire Wheel
BFH
Rubber BFH
Good Eye Protection Goggles not glasses
First things first, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ATLEAST 2 TIMES.
We started out about 9 in the morning, I got my favorite Mexican Alfredo to help me remove the top off of the Jeep. I then removed the windshield wipers, and removed the 6 T40 torx bolts holding the windshield up (refer to your Jeep Owners manual on dropping the wind shield)
We then proceeded to remove all padding on the roll bars, to remove the ones that the door surrounds go to you need a tamper proof t50 bit, I didnt have one of these at the time so after a trip to NAPA, Autozone, And Pepboys, I ended up using a pair of channel lock pliers to get the bolt off
Then we attached the 2 front lower pillars to the dash
Next we put the windshield up and bolted it back in place, in preparation for tacking the 2 upper windshield pillars in place
Just FYI get your self a good welding blanket and cover your dash, I almost caught my jeep on fire from a rouge piece of slag that decided to jump between my seat and find its way on to a piece of paper.
Next I started measuring for the Dash spreader (measure everything 2+ times) the instructions called for it to be 1/2" above the gauge cluster, and tack it in.
next came the upper spreader and the middle supports, this kind of had to get done at the same time this is where having 5 hands came in handy. we held the 2 middle supports in place while we tacked the upper spreader in place, this was a PITA.
Once I got those in tacked place we proceeded to measure and tack in the grab handles, I hightly suggest getting these with your kit, as it will stiffen the cage and act as a gusset between the upper windshield pillar and the upper windshield spreader.
We then dropped the windshield again and unbolted the cagefrom the body of the Jeep, 16 T50 bolts and 2 T50 tamper proof bolts. you will also have to unbolt the rear seatbelts to get to the bolts holding the rear of the cage. We removed the cage from the Jeep and set it on my car hauler. I started the teadious task of completely welding everything together.
Then came the rear spreader I roughtly marked this while I still had the cage in the jeep to make sure the top would clear the rear spreader. After we pullded the cage out it was a little bit easier to get the thing level on the cage, I got to admit after I welded it up I was still about 1/4 inch off, but oh well.
I went over all the welds with my wire wheel, and used the angle grinder to remove the vast majority of the splater in preparation for painting. USE EYE PROTECTION!!!! I unfortunatly didnt and suffered the next week after getting a small sliver of metal in my eye.
I then Primed the cage several times
 and then came the 4 coats of gloss black, unfortunatly, I didn't get any pictures of this due to my memory stick being full on the camera, but it came oUt nice, a few runs, but they are fixable. I had to get some help putting the cage back in the jeep, it took 3 people this time. and reassembly went quick. Poison spyder supplies 2 1"x4" bolts to tie the frame into the body going through the 2 front drain holes, on the passenger side the bolt went in fine. On the drivers side I ended up using the OEM jack that came with the jeep and had my wife press against the side of the pillar with her foot, for me to get the bolt in, amazingly with all of this it dropped in. I tightened the bolts and the install was complete.
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-James
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