Parts Needed
Mile Marker Dana 30 Hub Conversion
Anti-Sieze compound
1998 XJ 3 3/16 tall rotor with pilot hole machined
Bearing Grease

Tools Needed
12 point 13mm socket
8mm socket (for calipers) Breaker Bar
Floor jack & jack Stands
36mm Socket
Snap ring pliers
12 ton press

*Basicly bolt on...

After some problems with my front end, I decided that it would be to my advantage to be able to dissconnect my front end via manual hubs. Not only should the gas mileage be a little better, but now if I grenade my front diff I can "unlock" the hubs and not worry about causing further damage to my drivetrain. It'll also keep the noise down while driving on the street with my Lock-rite.

** I suggest that you plan ahead, and while you are waiting for your kit to come in go get the machine work done on your rotors. When if does come in It might also be a good idea to press your studs in & get the outers on ahead of time if you have spares like I did.

1. I started off putting the front end on stands and removing a tire to wokr on one side at a time.


2. Next, you can go ahead and pull off your calipers. Mine used a 12 point 8mm socket.


3. Then you can go ahead and remove the 3 bolts that hold the hub on (13mm socket)& get the spindle nut off (32mm socket)


4. Next you'll need to pull your shafts and change out your outers with the MM ones if you haven't preassembled them like I did. Check out my write up on u-joints if you don't already know how to change them out.


5. Now you can go ahead and slide your shafts back in. If you have dirty axle tubes you might want to drain your diff & remove the cover so that any gook that gets on the shafts isn't floating around in your diff. Mine had recently been cleaned when I installed my d30 tube seals so I skipped doing this.


6. If you haven't already press your wheel studs in now is the time to do it. No pics of pressing them in for you, but it's pretty easy to figure out what you need to do. You need to pull off the outer part of the new bearing assembly, and press the wheel studs in through the back of the rotor and into the inner part of the new assembly. Here is the finished setup.


7. Next you need to attach the inner part of the bearing assembly to the knuckle. You'll use the same 3 bolts that held the stock assembly & torque em to spec.


8. Slap a little but of grease onto the spindle & slide the outer beaing assembly and rotor on. Then go ahead and get the inner spindle nut on. The inner is the one with the little nub on it. You'll need to torque it and back it off a little as detailed in the instructions. Next you can slip the little washer with the holes on. If it doesn't line up with the nub try flipping it over or tighting the inner slightly.


9. Once you have that done, go ahead and get the outer nut on and torque it to spec.


10. Now you need to slide the spline washer on and get the snap ring on. You might need to pull on the shaft (or push from behind) to get the room for the snap ring.
11. Finally you'll need to lube up the supplied O ring with anti sieze and put the hub on. If yours doesn't sit flush right against the bearing assembly immediately you can tighten a few lugs on it now to get the studs all the way through the hub or wait till you get the wheel on.


12. Now it's time to get the caliper back on.


13. Last thing to do it to get your wheel on and repeat everything on the other side.


**I'm happy with the kit. Originally I had problems finding the right rotor with the .25" thickness, but ended up finding one at AutoZone for about $20. I'll have an update after I put some miles on it and give it a few trail tests.