Parts Needed
6" x 5/16 bolts
8 5/16 washers
4 small hitch pins (Mine were I believe 7/64

Tools Needed
Basic Socket set
Screw Drivers
Drill & Bits
Nail punch & hammer
Angle Grinder (or dremel)
bench vise suggested... not necessary

Since I already cut the top off, it was time to make the doors removeable....If you still have full doors they will be a bit awkward to get back on, but since I no longer had any internals (window, regulator) mine are fairly easy to remove & slap back on.

Do one side at a time... it'll help you put things back correctly to be able to refrence the other side...

1. First thing to do is remove the door itself. If you have electric locks or windows don't fret. Just run down to the parts store and get 2 trailer wiring harnesses (or other similar setups) and splice away. That way you can unplug when you remove without a big mess. Since I didn't have any wires I just removed the 4 bolts holding the doors to the brackets.

2. Next up you'll need to get the brackets off the vehicle. You could do this with the brackets on the vehicle but you run a risk of making a mess and it will be almost impossible to get your grinder/dremel where you need it. PITA is that to get to the door bracket on the body you'll either need to have tools better than mine (maybe a ratcheting wrench) or need to remove the front fender skin. Since I wanted to remove mine to clean behind them & beat a few dents out I removed the skin. It's not very hard to get the skin off, there are 2 bolts by the door, a few under the hood, & a few behind the front grill... yes you'll need to remove the front grill to get the skin off :D. Also a few screws holding the wheel well insert to the skin underneath.


3. Once you have that skin off you can easily remove the brackets. Make life easy on yourself & mark EXACTLY where the brackets were on the vehicle. You've already removed the bracket from the door but since it will be easily removeable those will be cake to adjust.

4. Now that you have the brackets off, take a look at the bottom bracket. It has an annoying spring mechanism on it that will make putting your removeable doors back on near inpossible. So you'll want to go ahead and drill the rivet that holds it in, off. Note that the rivet, where you need to drill, is flat. There is a small nub on the otherside that you do not need to worry about grinding down. I did and wasted my time as it doesn't hold the spring on, only centers it... you'll see.

5. Once you have the spring off, go ahead and grind off that rivet end (donut looking end) of the center pin. Now you can beat it out with a hammer ... having a vice here is nice...

6. Now that you have the pin out it's time to make your new pins. I used 5/16 bolts that were about 6" long to start. You wanna make sure they aren't threaded all the way up... just look at the pics. I did a rough measurement taking into account the 2 washers per pin & leavin room for the hitch pin. Use your angle grinder and cut them down. Note that the top & bottom will need different lengths.

7. After you get them to length you'll want to start out with a very small drill bit to make your pilot holes. Just drill a small hole near the tip of your new pin, leaving enough room to a larger hole to not go through the end. Gradually step up till you have a hole big enough for your pins. I also used a much larger bit to clean up & bevel the hole so the pin would slide in easier.


8. Once you have your pins made you can go ahead & prime & paint whatever you need to then put your hinges back on the body & door, put your fender skin back on. Once you have the other side done put your grill back on and put those doors back on. Do some testing & make sure your doors line up correctly & call it a night!


-Patrick