Parts Needed
Daystar Spring Spacer Kit
2 Tie Rod End grease boots (Available at Autozone)

Tools Needed
Basic Socket Set
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
Pitman Arm puller
Pickle fork
Grinder
If you are replaceing the ball joints you can skip the pitman arm puller & grinder and use a picklefork

When I got my Ram it had 20 and the nose sat very, very low. I decided to junk the 20's for some 17s with BFG ATs and add on a leveling kit. This Kit gave me 2.5"" lift up front .... go figure...

This project took a total of 2.5 hours. It should have taken a lot less time but I didn't have the right tools at first so....

1. The first thing to do is to get the rear wheels blocked, get the front end up on some jackstands and get the wheels/tires off the front. I did one side at a time. I put 2 stands in the middle and left my floor jack loose so I could use it to ease the springs in and out.


2. Now you can go ahead and remove the caliper and sit it atop the frame. Next you'll want to pull off the rotor. These both come off so you can get to the upper ball joint and tie rod easier.

3. Next you can go ahead and remove the sway bar link and the tie rod. The pickle fork I got from AutoZone worked fine for this. I actually had a tie rod puller at my house ... but it didn't fit over the knuckle. Using the pickle fork on the tie rods is why I needed new grease boots for the tie rods. You are bound to tear them up... I tried to compress the spring with compressors, and skip this step.... it was an exercise in futility. DOn't bother trying to get the spring out without removing the tierod, sway link & upper balljoint. It just isn't gonna happen

4. On the driverside, there is a little cable, held onto the knuckle with a small bracket. You'll want to pull the cable out of the bracket and bend the bracket out of the way.

*****You are about to remove the upper balljoint! This will cause the spring to come loose and if you aren't careful you can really mess yourself (or someone else) up doing this. PLease be careful. 5. Next thing to do is to carefully position your floor jack under the A Arm. You want to jack up with the jack just enough so it takes the pressure off the balljoints and puts it all on the jack.

6. Here is where I had to get creative. My Balljoint, 3 jaw & tie rod pullers all were useless for getting the upper balljoint out. I also considered using the pickle fork, but it was too narrow. I ebded up having to use my Pitman arm puller. To do so I had to remove a tiny bit of material so that it could slide over the ball joint. I also had to remove the center punch on it all the way, slide the "C" into place, then thread the center punch into it. If I had just dine this in the first place, instead of trying all the other things I did, this project would have taken me 1 hour.

7. However you decide to get the upper balljoint out, once you do, you'll want to gently lower the jack allowing the spring to come loose. I suggest you stand in front of the vehicle when removing & installing the spring. Once the spring is out, you end up with this:


8.Now you simply need to put the spacer in and get it all back together. I kept the stock "isolator" that was atop the spring becasue I didn't want to remove it and not get the full effect. Here is what it looks like finished.


9. I think it looks much, much better...